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Hi,
I read the owner’s manual supplement on my RX300 and the service schedule
looks quite straight forward. There’s one item "Re-torque drive shaft flange
bolts" that’s listed every 15,000 miles.
Does anyone know where it is? Is this something I can do myself (or my
mechanic) so I can avoid a long and expensive trip to the dealer? If so,
what’s the torque spec? Thanks.
- Frank
The rotors seem to be warped (going by driving experience rather than
measurement) During the removal process I noticed there were no
screws holding the rotor to the hub. In my experience I have always
seen a couple of set screws holding the rotor in place. These have
two tapped holes with nothing in them. My guess at this point is it
is a slight press fit and the tapped holes are used for removal.
Sound right?
It also helped to formulate a theory as to why the brakes make noise
whenever the car switches directions (forward to reverse and vice
versa). Toyota states this loud clicking noise is a normal noise for
many of there models. The holes in the rotor where the studs off of
the hub come through are a bit bigger than the studs, leaving room for
movement. Looking at the rotor, you see the rotor laying against the
studs in one direction. Put the car in reverse, hit the brakes and it
hits the studs on the other side. Looks like very poor engineering.
I have never seen a setup like this, although I mostly work on Hondas.
But I hate hearing dealerships say a noise like this is normal. It’s
not normal, just deemed acceptable by the manufacturer and it
shouldn’t be on a 35K car or any car for that matter.
Anyone know more about this. I have met others with avalons and
camry’s and es300′s which make the exact same noise. Search on the
web for other models and it looks like half of toyota’s/lexus’s line
suffers from this problem.
Last weekend I took my ’99 IS200 Sport to be valued ready for a Sept 1st
trade in. The salesman said that they’d need to do some work to repair the
damage I’d done to the alloys. Despite being as careful as I could over the
past three years and 40,000 miles not one rim was 100% intact and had been
kerbed at some point.
When the original Michelin Pilots wore out on the front, I had them replaced
with a pair of BF Goodrich tyres which coincidentally had a protruding ring
of rubber which is supposed to help to protect the rims. I chose the BFGs
because they were £30 cheaper each and like many of the current Formula 1
teams, I haven’t enjoyed my time on Michelin rubber. Obviously it was too
late in my case to see whether the BFGs would have helped to counter my
obviously inept driving style, but I wondered if any of you have any
experiences/thoughts on the matter.
I didn’t ask how much the damage to the rims had reduced my car’s trade-in
value, but I suppose I can find this out when I pick the new one up. It did
get me wondering whether there are companies out there in the UK who can
restore alloy wheels. Alternatively, is there anything the average owner can
do, apart from giving kerbs a very wide berth?!
Cheers,
James
I recently purchased a 91 LS400 and replaced the battery. Unfortunately the
radio would not accept the code on the 3rd and 4th try. The dealer wants a
lot of money to reprogram it for me. Does anyone know how to do this
without going to the dealer.
Does anyone know if I can install the new DVD’s myself?
And how it can be done.
Does anyone know a good treatment for leather auto seats? I’ve got a
1993 GS300, and the seats seem to be drying out a bit, perhaps in
danger of cracking in the future. I treat leather boots with silicone
spray, but that often leaves them a bit slicker than I’d like on a car
seat. Someone suggested saddle soap, but I’m concerned that that often
leaves things oily.
Has anyone had good or bad experiences with products that are supposed
to rehydrate leather?
Thanks in advance.
In <8lq4mu8el5109bnh6r53d97rj1n3n74…@4ax.com>
ELS <sag…@REMOVEattbi.com> quoted Borman <NOS…@NOSPAM.NOSPAM> who
had asked:
"is it possible that MOST of the cars on the lost drive less then 10K a
year for the past say 5-10 years? Statisticaly it is imposible."
ELS answered:
"Yes, this is possible if the dealership wholesales out the higher
mileage cars while keeping the lower mileage ones."
Yes, ELS. You are correct! Lexus dealers can only certify cars that
are 5 years old or newer and have not clocked more than 60,000 miles on
their odometers. This can be easily verified as each vehicle’s complete
service history is stored in the National Lexus database, not just at
the local dealer.
These lower-mileage cars are the ones that Borman sees on the lot for
inflated prices.
Just as with the German cars, a vehicle that has "all the books and
records" of service performed by factory-trained techs and factory parts
is worth more than those of questionable heritage.
Oh, and by the way, these are the cars that come equipped with the 3
year/up to 100,000 mile virtually bumper-to-bumper warranty from one of
the most respected companies in the business.
Will this be a "luxury" version of the Sequoia, or would it be a different
truck altogether? If not, will it be smaller than the Sequoia?
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